A Historical Epic in Portuguese Cuisine
Written by
Maria Gazhe
Maria Gazhe is a pastry chef, recipe developer and food writer. She currently owns and operates a pastry shop that cooks to order for private clients, restaurants and hotels
| September 7, 2023
Since at least the 14th century, Bacalhau has been an integral part of Portuguese gastronomy. Traditionally, Portugal has favored the use of dried and salted Atlantic cod, known as gadus morhua, although historically, the Portuguese were known to catch Greenland cod, or gadus ogac.
Originally, cod captured the fascination of the Vikings, who sailed the waters teeming with this fish. They pioneered the practice of air-drying cod, but as trade in this commodity grew, the decision was made to also salt it, enhancing its longevity.
During the Age of Discovery, as Portuguese sailors embarked on extended maritime voyages, Bacalhau became an essential provision. Consequently, it evolved into a national treasure. The city of Porto, Portugal’s gateway for cod imported from the cold waters of Iceland and Greenland, particularly stood out. The cod from Porto gained prestige in colonized Brazil, becoming known as “Bacalhau do Porto” or Codfish from Porto.
Formerly an economical and readily available staple, cod began to dwindle in traditional fishing grounds during the 20th century. This crisis led to a sharp increase in its price. Even today, while Portugal boasts hundreds of cod-based recipes, dishes featuring cod are reserved for festive occasions like Easter or Christmas.
Among the most popular cod dishes today are cod with cream, Bacalhau à Brás (with onions, potatoes, and eggs), and Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá (a version from Porto). Furthermore, cod is transformed into delectable pastries like “Pastéis de Bacalhau,” while Brazil has embraced codfish fritters as a culinary delight.
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